The Road To Pomene

For Pomene you travel North along the coastal highway of Mozambique and over the Tropic of Capricorn. A right turn takes you onto the Red Road that leads towards the Pomene National Reserve.

The lodge rests on the other side,  liberally spread across a sand spit at the mouth of the Pomene Estuary: on one side the lagoon and on the other, the sea.

We were introduced to Pomene by a South African Champion Angler. An amazing woman who can cast a penn reel into a swirl of ocean with such elegance that one may be forgiven for thinking that she is using a fly rod.

Just before the lodge one passes through the hamlet of Pomene City which provides freshly baked, warm and smoky bread rolls, cold beer, onions, tomatoes, fish and a curio or two.

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Oh yes – and coconuts. Always coconuts.

If the sea has been rough the lodge’s culinary offerings are in line with those of the little village, minus the fish, although fresh crab seems to be fairly consistent.

This is a remote destination,

of excessive beauty.

Flamingoes abound and dugongs are said to live in the estuary waters along with a variety of other birdlife living off the offerings of the mangroves and the critters that take shelter in their shadows.

We didn’t see any dugongs but then the wind was blowing so we were a little distracted,

launching on the low tide next to our water chalet, while our ‘kiting orphans’ looked on.

And when the wind switched direction we headed to the ocean side,

in search of waves…

and rock pools,

while taking time out to explore the abandoned Portuguese hotel laying in ruins on the hill,

now occupied by a wonderer who has taken up residence in a room with a view:

Nothing to disturb him except the odd tourist, turtle, egret or fisherman.

This is a place one longs to return to,

and once there,

never leave.

Celebrating our return to Pomene: Mid 2014

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fish Tales II

As the fishermen of Tofo Beach head out to sea in their wooden boats, just around the corner at firing Tofino Point,  the swell is small on this winter morning and the sea calm – perfect for the youngsters to venture out at this legendary spot for the first time. While they do that, three local fishermen appear on the beach. They too are keen to take advantage of the low tide and gentle conditions.

From my perch on the hillside I watch as they strategize and arrange their net.

Heading out onto the rocks they slip into the water with confidence and ease.

The lead pulls the net around the selected area,

while the ‘fish flapper’ swims, slapping the water with his arms and legs in an attempt to get the fish into a confused tis which will hopefully result in their capture.

Once the slapping and flapping is done the net is dragged ashore.

Slippery, silvery fish – shimmering in the net,

from which they are gathered and bagged for the trip back up the beach towards The Market.

Celebrating more of the Magic of Mozambique – Winter 2013

The Road to Tofo

From our home in Chintsa, past the early morning money changes at the Mozambique border and through the crushing traffic of Maputo to our first rest camp in Moz, requires two days of solid driving.

Money-changers at Kamatiport Border post.

As one heads North, the scenes change to the tropical and, exotic.

 blending into the influences of an East African trade history.

The road leads through the urban grind of rush hour in the Capital,

with staples of bread and fruit stockpiled along the road-side, ready to feed a nation…

who are rebuilding the ruins of a recent war-torn past.

The beauty of  finely featured women speak of time-ago when Northern trade routes brought separation, upheaval and strife into tradition life.

And as the road winds on it runs past stretches of coconut plantations, thought to be the largest on the planet running for hundreds of km’s….along the coast,

while the warm weather throws promises into the air….

of another way of living,

where somehow life feels slower yet fuller,

and the everyday,

can easily be seen as the extra-ordinary.

And life feels good,

Tofo Beach at Sunset

On Tofo Beach.

Celebrating another trip to Tofo – April / May 2013

Mozambique Calling II

Honey tanned Sarah

A couple of years ago we headed North on a Grand Adventure. (For my daughter Sarah’s take on the leaving process click here!

Little did we realise just how much we would fall in love with Mozambique but love it was and now finally we are off again just to check if it is all still there as we left it.

Time for a bit of this,

and this,

Eric surfing 'Torpedo' Point

and this,

and this,

and this.

So for the next little while life will be lite on the comms and heavy on the moment. Will be back when we return…….

Celebrating Family Adventures to be had – April 2013

Go Fish! Mozambique Calling…

While swimming in pools of water left behind by the backing tide at Pomene –  Mozambique, we noticed large patches of darkness contrasted against the crystal clear water. Thinking these were a type of sea-weed we ventured closer and as we did so the patches moved on – millions and billions of tiny fish. Not long after, a little white box vessel came along crewed by three Mozambique fishermen, on the hunt. Further along the beach later in the day, amid the  pansy shells and coral stones we noticed large areas of sand marked off with sticks and small glass Coke-a-Cola bottles. On the sand lay millions of tiny fish drying in the sun, bringing to mind mopani worms and other tiny packets of protein that sustain people all over Africa and the world.

It is starting to feel like time for a bit more Mozambique….

Pomene, Mozambique July 2011 

Estuary Taxi

Mbongan’s Taxi works across the Pomene Estuary in Mozambique just North of the Tropic of Capricorn. You can call him for a pick-up on his cell advertised on the side of his dhow. Dugongs, flamingo’s, green pigeons and a large variety of mangroves grace this amazing place. He doesn’t charge extra for wild-life interactions although there is not much chance that he will slow down either. Time is money.

Contact Mbongan on: 848-108208 (Moz)

Pomene, Mozambique Trip – June 2011