The Road To Pomene

For Pomene you travel North along the coastal highway of Mozambique and over the Tropic of Capricorn. A right turn takes you onto the Red Road that leads towards the Pomene National Reserve.

The lodge rests on the other side,  liberally spread across a sand spit at the mouth of the Pomene Estuary: on one side the lagoon and on the other, the sea.

We were introduced to Pomene by a South African Champion Angler. An amazing woman who can cast a penn reel into a swirl of ocean with such elegance that one may be forgiven for thinking that she is using a fly rod.

Just before the lodge one passes through the hamlet of Pomene City which provides freshly baked, warm and smoky bread rolls, cold beer, onions, tomatoes, fish and a curio or two.


Oh yes – and coconuts. Always coconuts.

If the sea has been rough the lodge’s culinary offerings are in line with those of the little village, minus the fish, although fresh crab seems to be fairly consistent.

This is a remote destination,

of excessive beauty.

Flamingoes abound and dugongs are said to live in the estuary waters along with a variety of other birdlife living off the offerings of the mangroves and the critters that take shelter in their shadows.

We didn’t see any dugongs but then the wind was blowing so we were a little distracted,

launching on the low tide next to our water chalet, while our ‘kiting orphans’ looked on.

And when the wind switched direction we headed to the ocean side,

in search of waves…

and rock pools,

while taking time out to explore the abandoned Portuguese hotel laying in ruins on the hill,

now occupied by a wonderer who has taken up residence in a room with a view:

Nothing to disturb him except the odd tourist, turtle, egret or fisherman.

This is a place one longs to return to,

and once there,

never leave.

Celebrating our return to Pomene: Mid 2014










23 thoughts on “The Road To Pomene

    • Thank you. It is worth the trip! Fly into Inhambane from JHB and I believe a shuttle service can be organized to get you to the lodge which is about a 4 hour drive North. Alternatively self drive (4×4 only) – long way from CT though but would make an amazing road trip.

  1. What an exquisite and tranquil place, Gill. I had no idea (like many ignorant south Africans am sure) how beautiful it could be. Now I understand why you and Eric are drawn there. Thanks for sharing – your blog is wonderful. Regards, Lynn

  2. Amazing, Gill! I felt like I was reading a story in a fine magazine — could hardly imagine though that I could “know” someone who lived life like this.
    Happy New Year, and all good wishes to you and your whole family.

  3. Thanks Judith. That is very kind of you. Best wishes to you too! I started commenting on your latest post yesterday which is so open and true to humanity cutting through all the rubbish that is causing so much pain while hitting the point profoundly but anyway then I bailed – just don’t have words at the moment. So saddened by it all.

  4. Beautiful, evocative words enhanced by photos that underline the essence they convey, simultaneously tempting and transporting. Summed up beautifully and telling much about Pomene and you that you love it so much 🙂

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